Bogotá, the capital city of Colombia, is a colorful, diverse and populous city where colonial-era churches stand alongside towering skyscrapers. But this bustling city is more than just the financial center of Colombia. It’s also an underrated food haven. From a steaming bowl of ajiaco colombiano at a bustling street market in La Perseverancia Square to a lavish eight-course meal at an upscale restaurant in Chapinero, Bogotá is a culinary capital of the world in its own right.
On a recent visit to Bogotá, I met Javier Cárcamo Sáez, executive chef at the Hilton Bogotá Corferias. Sáez, who has more than 20 years of hospitality experience, specializes in Latin American and international cuisine and leads the hotel’s culinary and food and beverage operations. His passion for cooking began in his native Chile, where he grew up in a family of sailors who lived by the sea in Chilean Patagonia. Being surrounded by coastal ingredients and fresh seafood, such as Magellan crab and Patagonian toothfish, cultivated his love for food. He says via email, “The sea and its bounty were my first inspiration. I watched how ocean products turned into true culinary works of art.” Sáez became a chef to explore, create and share the unique flavors he encountered during his childhood.
Sáez has worked all over Latin America and has been living in Bogotá for the past seven years. He says the capital city has become a gastronomic hub where regional cuisines from all over the country converge. Despite being a remarkable food city, he says, “Bogotá doesn’t always receive the international recognition it deserves in culinary terms, but many chefs are working to change that.” He believes the main reason Bogotá flies under the radar is that many people associate Colombia more with its geographic landscapes than its culinary landscape. When they do think of Colombian food, it’s typically coffee that first comes to mind.
The growth of gastronomic culture in the city has been constant, including fine dining restaurants, gourmet markets and food events offering everything from high-end cuisine to street food. Sáez believes this trend makes Bogotá a versatile destination for food, although still underrated, compared to other Latin American capitals like Lima or Mexico City.
So, where are Chef Sáez’s favorite restaurants in Bogotá? I reconnected with the chef for his top five picks.
El Chato
The term ‘El Chato’ is one that elders in Bogota use to refer to their friends. It’s also the name of one of Colombia’s top restaurants. Led by Chef Alvaro Clavijo, El Chato consistently ranks as one of the “50 Best Restaurants” in the world and serves a seasonal menu with evocative items ranging from crispy tapioca to candied trout. Sáez contends that El Chato has transformed the gastronomic landscape of Bogotá through its innovative approach and extensive use of local ingredients. “It’s a place where creativity and tradition meet,” he says.
Though El Chato’s menu changes frequently, one of the standout dishes for Sáez has been the tartare of beef tenderloin, which he describes as “a celebration of meat in its purest form.” The dish features finely hand-cut beef tenderloin mixed with umami flavors and subtle hints of spices and herbs that are surprisingly light to the palate.
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Mesa Franca
Located in a converted mansion in Chapinero Alto, Mesa Franca embodies casual sophistication. Here, the focus is bistronomy: bistro cooking with gastronomic techniques. Described as a “hidden gem in Bogotá” by Sáez, the restaurant is known for its creative reinterpretation of local cuisine. Sáez praises the restaurant’s crispy pork belly with mango ají, calling it “an explosion of flavors and textures, where the perfectly crispy pork is artfully complemented by the fresh and sweet notes of the mango ají.”
At Mesa Franca, which translates to “frank table,” dishes are honest and approachable, and you can also find a wonderful selection of light bites, such as empanadas, hamburgers, tostadas and tamales.
Restaurante Leo
Each dish on the menu at Restaurante Leo tells a story, reflecting a specific regional ecosystem and cultural heritage of Colombia. From the Amazonian rainforest to the Andean highlands, the ingredients traverse geographical landmarks, allowing diners to embark on a gastronomic journey through Colombia without leaving the table.
For Sáez, Restaurante Leo is more than just a restaurant. It’s a cultural experience that takes diners around Colombia through food. Owner Leonor Espinosa won the prestigious “World’s Best Female Chef” title in 2022, and the restaurant has been a staple on the esteemed “50 Best” list.
Sáez recommends the eight-course tasting menu and a wine pairing to fully embrace this culinary narrative. On one occasion, he sampled unique creations like tuna ‘chorizo,’ guinea pig coated in a crunchy ‘popcorn’ crust and stingray served with a delicious sauce alongside thin rice paper shaped like a stingray. The dessert left an enduring impression, too: marshmallows resembling caterpillars resting on ‘dirt’ made from chocolate shavings. This emphasis on creativity, the focus on locally sourced ingredients and the capacity to surprise with every dish make Leo a place he visits often.
Salvo Patria
Initially starting it as a coffee business, owner Juan Manuel Ortiz transformed Salvo Patria into a renowned restaurant in 2011, inspired by Colombia’s rich biodiversity. Emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients, the restaurant delivers a modern, sustainable dining experience with a strong commitment to the environment.
A particular favorite of Sáez’s is the grilled octopus paired with Andean potatoes and chimichurri. Sáez describes the octopus as “expertly grilled, achieving tenderness with a slight char,” while the Andean potatoes add robust flavor, and the chimichurri artfully ties the dish together. Each menu item embodies the restaurant’s farm-to-table philosophy, presenting simple yet profoundly flavorful offerings.
Santa Clara de Monserrate
Perched atop the Monserrate hill, Santa Clara de Monserrate combines stunning views with authentic flavors. Sáez says, “The dining experience and views are as memorable as the food itself.”
The restaurant excels in showcasing Colombian comfort foods like ajiaco santafereño. This traditional soup is crafted with three types of native potatoes, corn and shredded chicken, then elegantly finished with capers and cream. “The balance of textures and rich, layered flavors is incredible,” Sáez notes. Given the restaurant’s commitment to local traditions, Sáez says Santa Clara de Monserrate offers the quintessential dining spot in Bogotá, as every dish celebrates Colombia’s culinary heritage.
This post first appeared on Forbes.com.
