In a city known for its culinary scene, new singular concepts are rare. That’s why the arrival of Maru San feels so exciting. As Washington, D.C.’s only restaurant dedicated to Nikkei gastronomy, it introduces a distinctive new layer to D.C.’s dining landscape. The opening also represents a major milestone for James Beard Award–winning chef and founder Carlos Delgado, whose newest concept marks his first solo venture.
Inspired by the historic voyage of the Sakura Maru in 1899, Maru San pays tribute to the origins of Peru’s Nikkei movement—the Japanese term for descendants of Japanese immigrants living abroad. As Japanese people settled in Peru, they began adapting their traditional cooking techniques to local ingredients such as ají peppers, corn and the region’s seafood. Over generations, this exchange gave rise to Nikkei cuisine, a distinct culinary tradition shaped by migration, resilience and creativity.
Born and raised in Lima, Delgado grew up eating Nikkei flavors from a very young age. His grandmother often took him to huariques, hidden family-run spots serving traditional Peruvian cuisine. One of them was a place called Rosita Yimura. It’s where Rosita Yimura, a pioneer of Nikkei cuisine and the daughter of a Japanese immigrant, served a dish he’ll always remember called Pulpo al Olivo, octopus covered in a Peruvian olive sauce. “Growing up, eating at these types of places was completely normal,” he says. Those early experiences helped spark Delgado’s interest in Nikkei cooking, and at Maru San, he honors Yimura with his own interpretation of the dish, served with the same Field Soda Crackers used in Peru.
Before launching his latest venture, Delgado played a pivotal role in several successful culinary ventures, including José Andrés’ China Chilcano and his dual-concept Peruvian restaurant: Michelin-starred Causa and sister restaurant Amazonia. Hand rolls and aged fish anchor the menu, with signature offerings that include the caviar roll and the 15-course Maru Experience, a four-seat tasting progression featuring five hand rolls and a range of seafood dishes. Guests can also sample tiraditos and sashimi, as well as a curated beverage program of sake, Japanese whisky and pisco-based cocktails.
Delgado uses pristine cuts of fish along with flavorful marinades and house-made sauces like leche de tigre. He says, “We use the same quality fish and produce as Michelin-star establishments,” highlighting the restaurant’s elevated sourcing. But he sees the concept as something more nuanced than traditional fine dining. “Not many places fall into the middle ground between casual and fine dining like us,” he explains.
He describes himself as a full-time creative, not just a chef, and remains deeply involved in every detail, from the food to the aesthetics. The restaurant’s intimate, modern space features clean lines, warm wood tones and soft lighting inspired by Japanese minimalism. Handmade ceramics sourced from Peru and Japan add texture throughout, while a striking hand-painted octopus mural draws the eye overhead. As Delgado explains, “I love the idea of embracing minimalism and creating something that feels like a new kind of experience for D.C. We’re taking guests to a completely unexpected place, considering the concept is fundamentally a fish market hand roll shop.”
As a Peruvian immigrant chef shaped by multiple cultures, Delgado has witnessed firsthand how food brings people together. He says, “Peruvians carry a multicultural identity shaped by the immigration of many cultures into our country. Now, I’m bringing a piece of that culture to Washington, D.C., sharing a small taste of how diverse and unique Peruvian food and culture truly are.”
Maru San arrives at a time when Washington, D.C. diners are increasingly interested in authenticity as much as incredible food. Although the city is known for adventurous palates, building a restaurant around a single culinary tradition is a bold move. Delgado embraced that challenge as an opportunity to spotlight foodways meriting broader visibility. By focusing exclusively on Nikkei cuisine, he’s bringing a fresh perspective to the local dining scene and tapping into the capital’s ongoing appetite for diverse global flavors. Even further, he hopes to showcase the vast umbrella that is Peruvian food, which includes Nikkei, ultimately using the restaurant as a love letter to his native country.
