Chef Paul Smith recently made history, becoming the first West Virginian to win a James Beard award. The nod was Smith’s second straight nomination for the coveted “Best Chef: Southeast” award, one of approximately 25 annual accolades given by the James Beard Foundation for excellence in American cuisine. Though award recipients have frequently hailed from states such as New York, California, Texas, Illinois and the Carolinas, with his win, Smith hopes to unveil what West Virginians have known for a long time—that their state is home to a flourishing culinary scene, brimming with unique flavors and talented chefs.
Smith’s introduction to cooking began in his grandparents’ kitchen, where Sundays were a celebration of family and food. He fondly recalls the aromas of freshly baked bread and the chatter of upwards of 50 Italian relatives filling the air during weekend family gatherings. “From the time I could walk, I’d be standing on milk crates stirring my grandfather’s beloved tomato sauce,” Smith commented via email. His dishes are a tribute to his Italian heritage and the treasured memories that sparked his passion for cooking.
Formally educated at the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated in the top ten of his class, Smith has worked across the country in such places as the Ritz-Carlton Naples, Florida, and the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina. Despite his success in various roles, he eagerly embraced the chance to return to his roots, serving as executive chef at the University of Charleston. Marty Roth, university president, recalls the diverse range of mouthwatering dishes he prepared during his tenure at the university. From fueling 100 hungry football players before game time to dishing out late-night breakfasts for students before final exams and crafting multi-course dinners for weddings, banquets and donor events, “his meals always received glowing reviews,” she says.
Despite his formal French training, Smith says his culinary style is not to “drown things in fancy sauces.” His philosophy is simple yet profound: Source the most seasonal and local ingredients possible and “let the food be the food.” Candace Nelson, local columnist and author of The West Virginia Pepperoni Roll, expands further, stating, “West Virginia cuisine is rooted in place. The original farm-to-table movement started here, and making use of what is available is core to the cuisine.”
In a state known for comfort foods like soup beans with cornbread and pepperoni rolls, “Chef Paul has succeeded in showing folks around here that the everyday things they grew up with can translate to a higher end dining experience,” says Daniel Schumaker, West Virginia resident and editorial director of Taste of the South. He adds that Smith not only spent the time building relationships with local farmers and artisans, but also introducing many people in the area to what Appalachian food could be.
In Charleston, West Virginia, Smith currently has three restaurants: Barkadas, The Pitch Sports Bar & Grill and 1010 Bridge Restaurant, a fine dining establishment that has become the go-to destination for elevated comfort food in the region. With a menu drawing inspiration from New American and Appalachian cuisines, 1010 Bridge features locally sourced ingredients like ramps foraged from the woods of West Virginia. This year, Smith has harvested about 500 pounds of ramps and uses every part, from the bulb to the leaves, in dishes like ramp pesto, fermented ramp honey and ramp butter. Schumaker, who frequents the restaurant, says the whipped feta with fermented ramp honey and the cast iron diver scallops with herb-parmesan risotto are his favorite menu items. One of Smith’s signature dishes at 1010 Bridge is the braised beef short rib bolognese, which incorporates a braised short rib, al dente spaghetti and his grandfather’s Sunday tomato sauce.
Smith is a prominent community leader and a mentor to budding chefs across the state. His influential roles include promoting the state’s cuisine as owner of Taste West Virginia, serving as a West Virginia Chef Ambassador and participating in Charleston’s Restaurant Week, which he was instrumental in founding years ago. It’s not unusual to find him helping another chef in their kitchen or working with students at Carver Career and Technical College. Nelson describes Smith as an inspiring community leader who “hosts kids’ cooking competitions at Capitol Market and gives free cooking demonstrations to seniors.”
He recently partnered with the West Virginia Department of Tourism to offer a cooking class to students participating in the inaugural Governor’s School on Tourism. In a recent press release, Chelsea Ruby, West Virginia Tourism secretary, said, “If there’s one thing I’m sure of, it’s that Paul will use this well-earned recognition to continue lifting up his community and his state. I can’t wait to see what he does next.”
Through his talents, Smith is raising the bar for West Virginia cuisine, proving that the state is a destination not just for adventure but also for the taste buds. His remarkable achievements and engagement with his community will undoubtedly pave the way for future West Virginia chefs to make their marks on the global culinary stage.
This article first appeared on Forbes.
